Surprise! I moved to Georgia.
(The country, not the state.)
To say this was sudden is an understatement. When I decided to shuffle my plans around to attend WTM in London this November, an extra month opened up in my schedule. I wanted to use the time to go somewhere and sit still – rent an apartment, get a metro card, have a kitchen – and just work.
There’s a lot of prep to be done before the convention.
As I was in Turkey visiting a friend when I made this decision, I first though about staying in Istanbul or going to Olympos to chill out and write. Then, her roommate said, ‘Why not Tbilisi? It’s cheap and it’s nearby.’
Strangely enough, I’d always wanted to visit Georgia. I remember seeing the alphabet once when I was younger and being completely baffled and intrigued. So, within the course of an hour, I rebooked my plans for Bangkok, organised my flights to London, and bought my ticket to Tbilisi.
Life is funny sometimes.
Through an absolutely amazing stroke of luck (or fate?!), I was able to find a room before I even arrived in an apartment with three other female expats – one teacher and two masters students. We live in the midst of a massive city bazaar, and just down our street there are vendors selling fruits, vegetables, meat, cheese, bread, house wares, clothing, appliances and – most curiously – religious icons.
My thoughts on Tbilisi so far?
I am dumbstruck in love with it.
How can I even describe why? Maybe it’s the look of the city – beautiful, ornate buildings crumbling in the old town, towering blocky church towers, secret courtyard gardens and grape vines hanging off every house.
Maybe it’s the friendliness of the people I’ve met – the family who spent 15 minutes bartering with taxi drivers on my behalf at the airport, the monk who blessed me in the metro station and enlisted passers-by to translate so we could talk, the women in the market who break into smiles when I attempt Georgian, or even my adorable new roommates.
Maybe it’s the bohemian vibe of the city, the hidden cafes to spend afternoons writing in, the dark-haired hipsters walking down Rustaveli, or the street-art you stumble upon when you least expect it.
Maybe it’s the food, the cheesey-bready-eggy-gooey khachapuri on every street corner, the little hole-in-the-wall restaurants that serve up dinners of eggplants with walnuts and spiced bean soup, or all the different perplexing Caucasian fruit for sale in the bazaar.
Maybe it’s the presence of Georgian Orthodoxy – so foreign and arresting – in people that cross themselves when they pass a church, vendors selling candles and icons and incense on the sidewalk, donation boxes for monasteries and churches in the supermarkets, or priests and monks hanging around, all dressed in black.
Maybe it’s that alien script everywhere you look.
But maybe – no, definitely – it’s the fact that Tbilisi feels like a secret.
This city is so beautiful, so perplexing, so inviting, so intriguing and so thrilling, just like any other European capital like Paris, Berlin or Rome, and yet there are almost no tourists.
Not many people seem to visit Tbilisi. The only other foreigners I’ve met are exchange students doing Russian studies, English language teachers, Peace Corps volunteers, and the rare adventure traveller.
There are no foreigners in fanny packs walking down the main avenue. No tour groups.
But why don’t they come? Tbilisi has blown me away so far, and I’m torn between wanting to tell absolutely everyone how absolutely amazing it is, and shutting my mouth to keep it a secret forever. Funny how that happens.
When I first announced my move, I got messages from a lot of people all expressing the same sentiment. They all asked why I’d chosen Tbilisi (as to be expected) but – strangely – all of them were also crazy excited for me.
I think, for many of us, the name ‘Tbilisi’ sounds so strange, so far-flung and unknown, that it can’t help but ignite curiousity.
I’m happy to say, they had a reason to be excited. Tbilisi is absolutely stunning, unbelievably invigorating, and its crumbling bohemian vibe reminds me so heart-achingly of Berlin, my favourite city in the world.
To every traveller, every nomad and every curious soul, I have a message:
Come to Georgia. Come to Tbilisi. Come visit, and come soon.
I have a feeling you’ll like it.
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This is such a great post Naomi! You’ve painted an awesome picture of a place a lot of people probably don’t consider when heading in the Eastern Europe direction :) Another place to add to the list I think!
Thank you darlin’! I agree, not many people consider this region…and yet it’s completely magic!!
Wow. What a fantastic post! I must admit, I don’t know anything about Georgia but the picture you’ve drawn with your words makes me want to visit it ASAP. Going onto my “must-visit” list! Thank you for sharing.
YES! So stoked to hear you put it on your list. It’s amazing :)
That bread in one photo should be very delicious, (similar to pita).Great post, a different kind of architecture for thirsty eyes. Tc
It’s so delicious – tastes a bit like sourdough, but is baked on the side of a massive clay oven like naan. I buy it from a guy just outside the door to my building, and am definitely peeking down there one of these days to get a picture of that oven in action!
hey lady!!! You must have a great time there!!! Soooooooo envious of you!
Whenever I visit your blog, it makes me smile and feel good!! Good job lady!!! :)
Awwwwww…thank you lady!! That makes ME smile!! xx
Tblisi sounds amazing! I’ve been meaning to save up and travel (I know, me and everyone else in the world…), and you’ve made it sound so romantic and beautiful. I hope it’s able to keep its identity if more tourists start visiting!
The best part? You can get by on 15$ a day. Fifteen!! ;)
Great post, Naomi! My friend Katie spent quite a bit of time in Tbilisi and that’s when it first got on my radar. Can’t wait to read more and hear about what you recommend seeing there.
I’ll try and post my best tips ;)
I’ve been wanting to go for so long! Probably won’t get there in the next month but when I finally do, will be asking you for advice. Cool post, love the photos!
Come during spring or fall…it’s so beautiful right now!!
this post only intensifies my need to get to georgia pronto. gorgeous photos! and im obsessed w/ georgian food. only had it in kiev, but pretty sure nothing on this planet would be as good as georgian food in georgia.
It’s amazing, isn’t it?! I had no idea what to expect outside of khachapuri, but it’s so much more!!
Some seriously wicked photo going on in this post. Awesome work, and definitely keep it up. Love the perspectives you’re getting, and the landscape stuff is stunning. Keep it up!
Thank you thank you! :)
Great to hear you like Tbilisi so much. It looks beautiful, and from your descriptions, I would love to visit. I’ve heard lots of good things about Georgian food and the hospitality of the people sounds just as wonderful too!
Oh man, Mark. Let me tell you.
The food.
THE FOOD WILL KILL YOU WITH DELICIOUSNESS!
You’d dig it ;)
Wow, this place looks mystical (I think that’s the right word…I’ve been teaching in Korea too long)…but wow it looks like no other place I’ve ever been. Awesome photos, I’ve added Tbilisi to my list of places I want to visit!
Ha! Mystical! I’ve heard the mountains and countryside are supposed to be pretty mystical ;)
Interesting… Georgia has never ever crossed my mind as a travel destination, but this city sounds great. Some of the things you mention are what I love about my favorite city, Mexico City.
Do me a favor and hide this post ASAP before the fanny packs descend on it :P
How long will you be there?
Just until the first week of November, sadly. Then it’s onto London and then (finally!) Southeast Asia…though I have a feeling Georgia will be swimming around my mind for a long while to come!
I had considered volunteering to teach English in Georgia for 6 months, but then I think I read something about squat toilets and bad water and then didn’t give it much more consideration. Haha…
But now I agree with Ekua– your photos and post really make it sound amazing… and I’m slightly afraid like her that it will be descended upon before I can get there!
So many people have said that! There is definitely a growing programme to bring English teachers over…and (minus the salary) almost identical benefits to teaching in Korea, I think!!
You gotta hurry up, then ;)
I LOVE these photos! And what a cool-looking alphabet, I never realized it was so different! You’ve definitely made me want to go to Tbilisi now.
Georgian, apparently, is related to no other languages except its own dialects. Isn’t that insane?! Seeing that beautiful crazy script everywhere makes it feel extra confusing and foreign over here! ;)
Shhh! Don’t blog about it too much or it won’t continue to be a secret. I’m jealous, it sounds awesome exploring a city with almost no tourists, gives you a better view into the culture of the area. You take great pictures by the way, you have me completely fascinated with Tbilisi.
Ha! Actually writing about these wonderful secrets is the big dilemma, isn’t it? ;)
Thanks for the kind words! :)
You’ve convinced me! Amazing photos, looks like an amazing place you stumbled upon. Your good at that!
Aw, thank you my love!! xx
amazing photos! thank you for sharing your adventures with us.
xthesimplethingsx.blogspot.com
Thank you Oleah!
why is it surprising you wanted to visit Georgia? here in Poland it seemes like a popular destinationn lately. I was there last year and I adored it! Tbilisi became one of my fave cities right away!
You know, we have met quite a few Polish travellers and students here – they’ve obviously got the right idea ;)
it’s kind of trendy to go to Georgia these days so I’m sure you’ll meet more and more Polish people there ;)
This is awesome. I understand why you are in love with this city. Thanks for sharing. We don’t get a lot of opportunities to get a good insight of this country. Are you planning visits outside the city?
Not as many as I would have liked (too much work to do!), but I did recently make it to Kazbegi and Davit Gareja…two truly astonishing places. Posts coming soon! Have you ever been to Georgia?
I just found your blog and I have to say that this is an amazing post. You have sold me on Tbilisi completely!!! Thanks :)
YES! Love to hear the Tbilisi love is taking over! ;)
very cool! I want to visit! beautiful photos
If Tbilisi goes on your travel list, that makes me very happy :)
Always been fascinated by visiting Georgia! Can’t wait to read more and perhaps talk when I finally get around to planning a jaunt there.
I am always down to share travel tips! ;)
naomi,
hello my trail buddy…. yah.. i guess i miss a lot of Tbilisi ..i just have 3 days there and dont have much time to explore the city by day… coz i have great fun to explore the places beyond Tbilisi.. hehehehe (thanks to Satu and you)
suppose to be i will explore tbilisi when i return from Yerevan that friday.. but minibus schedule from Yerevan to Georgia … where arrive in Tbilisi around 6 pm already…
but thanks for your pictures here.. i see it during the day-time…
still have a good reasons to come back to this Tbilisi….
cheers,
ramces
Get out there and explore! ;)
noami,
soon.. soon.. i need to fulfill some obligations here in my work.. hehehe…
Wow! Just incredible! So great to hear you’re wonderfully happy. Would love to visit somewhere like that untouched by tourism.
Do it…do it!!
got on your blog accidentally, it’s just amazing how u described my city..I love Tbilisi!
Yay, so great to hear that from a local!!
AMAZING photos, great post; my husband and I were considering coming here this summer and now it is an absolute definite plan!
Yay, it’s great to hear that!
I have visited Georgia for 10 days in May. Just like you, it was completely unexpected. Two days before I booked my flight, I never seriously planned to go there. I wanted to go somewhere new for a vacation. I looked what was available. I saw Tbilisi. Paused to consider and that was it. The idea was in my head.
Me too, I fell absolutly in love with it! For every reason you stated! The bohemain, run-down aleys of old Tbilisi, its artsy bars, the friendliness of Georgians and their devotion, the ruins of the industrial suburbs of Gori, the mightiness of the Great Caucasus… and the wine! I live in Brussels and I have to find a Georgian wine importer. I still have the taste of kidzamarauli on my tongue.
But wht struckme te most, it’s that I was in a place that felt old… ancient;;; a bit like Rome… but at the same time full of youth and energy.
And just like you, I’m torn between keeping it for myself or screaming what an awesome place it is. If it wasn’t for the Georgians who would love to see more people visiting their beautiful country, I would shut up about it!
I’m definitely going back!
So true! Glad to hear I wasn’t the only person who was so affected by it…Tbilisi is such a cool spot, and really off the radar!
Dear Naomi,
I went to Georgia about 1 year ago and even thought I stayed 2 days I could see the beauty and the potential of such destination. Just like you, ı loved the people, the food (oh my god, the food !), the bohemian vibe, the unexpected night life, etc… I live in Istanbul and I should fly in 2 weeks to Tbilisi for business purposes. Would love to meet with you and discuss more about your Tbilisi.
I’ve left now, but have fun when you do go! Say hello to the city for me ;)
Its an amazing place for sure – and the warmth of the people is what makes it all so much more special. A wonderful piece with beautiful photographs.
Thanks for sharing Naomi.
Very true – glad to know that someone else knows the magic :)
I just reread this – man, this makes me want to go so badly. I’m going to be in Europe for most of this year and the next, and I think I will have to make a point to visit Georgia…
DO. IT. I will e-mail you all the best spots ;) xx
Omg! I have 3 months of down time before I want to move to Brazil. Georgia has been an after thought, but after reading this post I think I’m going for it! Your pictures are incredible!
That’s so great to hear!! Have fun :)
Great post, Naomi.
I found you via your guest post on Edna’s blog. I’ve been thinking of moving to Georgia for a couple of months (since I can stay more than 90 days without needing visit) and this post has made me want to leave right now!
May I ask how you found your apartment? Was it through a website or through people you know?
Thanks again for a great post.
Couchsurfing! Finding an apartment in Tbilisi is actually quite difficult – I got lucky that the Tbilisi Couchsurfing Group just happened to have an apartment listed. I’d check around with expat groups in town as well. Good luck :)
Amazing post Naomi, thank you! I’m going to Tblisi with three friends for a two week on May 22nd. I’ve got a possible itinerary planned. I wondered if I could run it by you and see what you think. Also any tips would be really welcome!
Best wishes
Clare (London)
Of course! Send it over to naomi -at- anywhere-but-home.com anytime :)
Thank you so much for this awesome post! I will be living in Tbilisi for three months this autumn and now I’m looking forward to it even more!
Hooray!! What are you doing there? I really hope you love it too!! :)
I’ll be doing an internship from August until November! :)