Sometimes travel takes you straight down the rabbit hole.
Macau is an easy day trip from Hong Kong, but as soon as I had the opportunity to spend a few hours walking around, I sincerely wished I were staying for at least a few days.
Why?
Because it’s the strangest place I’ve ever been.
To understand exactly what makes this place so perplexing, I’ll need to give a bit of backstory: Macau is the result of the combination of a strategic placement at the mouth of the Pearl River, a strong tradition as a trading centre, a history as a Portuguese colony, and an identity that is mercurially Chinese. Guangdong farmers settled it, Portuguese traders expanded it, Chinese rulers allowed it because of the benefits Portuguese trade brought. It remained under significant Portuguese influence and control until 1999, when it was ‘handed over’ to China just as Hong Kong had been returned by the British a few years earlier.
And that’s, obviously, just the short version.
As a result, modern-day Macau is a truly bizarre example of multiculturalism: there are streets you can walk down which are lined with smooth, perfectly European colonial buildings, yet filled with Chinese businesses; signs on corners and ads are written bilingually in Portuguese and Chinese, which creates a seriously startling juxtaposition; graves in the local cemetary have pictures of Chinese women in qipaos with names like Maria Rosa and Luisa Antonia. At lunch, I flipped through a magazine featuring interviews with local Macanese residents – people who trace their heritage back to generations of intermarriage between the Chinese and Portuguese. Mixed haphazardly along the streets are pops of blue-and-white tiles, Lunar New Year firecrackers, and tiny shrines with curls of smoke rising from them next to bakeries selling pastéis de nata.
Tell me again why I thought I should just make this a day-trip?!
It’s true, Macau is microscopic and it’s more than possible to visit the majority of sights in just a day, but as I spent time exploring I sincerely wished I had more time to delve into this culture and atmosphere of this strange place. I wish I had had time to meet the locals, to talk with Chinese residents and Portuguese exchange students alike, to try and get some insight into what identity and sense of self-awareness comes from living in such a (and though the word will always sound trite, this is meant honestly) unique place. For serious, guys, I wish I could have gotten my anthropologist on!
So, friends and readers, take my advice, from someone who didn’t quite realise the sometimes-gravity of travel – if you have a chance to travel down the rabbit hole, don’t come up before you’ve gone all the way to the other side.
Getting there:
There are multiple ferries running between Macau and Hong Kong daily, from either the Shun Tak in Central (Hong Kong Island) or the China Ferry Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon Island). They run roughly ever 30-60 mins, frequently enough that you don’t really need to book ahead – though if you’re feeling particularly baller, you can also hire a helicopter!
Things to Do:
While I was perfectly happy just wandering the city (especially in the historic centre and Taipa – awesome strolling neighbourhoods!), there are plenty of other activities for interested travellers. One of my favourite moments was visiting the Lou Kau Mansion, a quiet pocket of the old town that you can check out for free. And seriously, what would be a post of Macau without mention of the casinos? If gambling’s your game, the downtown area is absolutely crawling with neon lights and betting tables. Poker, blackjack, and roulette abound…so go win back that money you’ve been blowing on nights out!
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It does look kind of bizarre :) Did you check out any of the casinos? I would have loved to visit Macau when I was in Hong Kong but my sister and I were too busy shopping to get on a ferry :D
No, I didn’t have time to – again, another reason to stay for longer than just one day!! ;)
I regret not going back to Macau on my latest trip to Hong Kong (I’d gotten seasick on another boat so another ferry ride wasn’t so appealing :P ) Like you I found the vibrant history, culture, architecture and food fascinating. If you liked Macau I’d recommend that you head to Malaysia (another place I regret not going back to but remains one of the most interesting countries I’ve visited). Next trip…
You know, sometime ages ago I watched a video shot in Malaysia without knowing where it was filmed, and I remember feeling so fascinating and perplexed by what it. Afterwards, I looked up where it had been filmed and thought, ‘…huh, really?!’
I REALLY wish I could find that damn thing and watch it again!! There is a chance that I will be in Malaysia this winter, so maybe I’ll just find out for myself :)
Cool to see there’s even street art in Macau!
That is actually going to be the topic of my next post :)
Sounds like a wonderful to discover. Travel always feels more special when you get that big surprise from a place that exceeds your expectations and takes on a magical appearance.
I entirely agree :)
I just read this on TBEX and I love it. I agree that Macau is like a fairytale. Between the enormous hotels and the little pots of incense outside of every door, it’s sort-of like a comic book version of China. I love it for that and I’m glad you did too!
A comic book version of China – I like that ;)
To be honest, I’ve never really given Macau much thought so this was an interesting read!
Girl, I am all about spreading the love for Macau! A bunch of my friends here are going to Hong Kong for vacation and they now know to definitely check it out :)
I’m also pretty excited to check it out now, great pictures, you are talented!
GIRL I wanna hear all about it when you’re on your trip. Also, I fully expect blog updates at least once a week!!
I also took a day trip to Macau from Hong Kong, but I didn’t see as much as you did (I took a picture of that egg tart place too). I just went to see the main attractions (St. Paul’s Church and surrounding areas) but I would’ve loved to explore alleys for street art, try local food, meet locals, do whatever locals do, check out the casinos, and see other areas of interests. It may be a small island but it packs a lot!
On a different note, I did go to Samcheong-dong and wished I had more time to explore and go into different cafes. A post on that is coming shortly. I didn’t go to Hyoja-dong and a few other neighborhoods.
I love your blog and I’ll have to check out your older posts!
This place looks extraordinary! I think you’ve inspired my next trip! Thanks :)
From The Smart Girl’s Travel Guide x
An enthralling series of images for me, as I felt the very same wonder as you did when I visited Macao about 20 years back. Surely a lot has changed in two decades, but it was this mixing of these two very different cultures that entrigued me so much, and I must relate the following.
We approached a little old colonial looking man in a white suit (yes, really… like out of a novel) at the front of his restaurant, and negotiated our conversation with him, we in Spanish, and he in Portuguese. He was closed, but directed us to another restaurant where I though the Chinese waiter was trying to describe in English the Portuguese wine we had ordered, but then I caught “muito lindo” (very nice).
I, too, wished it had been more than just a day trip from Hong Kong. I must go back!
First off-I love your blog! I am a BIG fan of Asia (China&Hong Kong specifically since they’re the only places I’ve visited) but I started reading this blog from AdventurousKate’s blog house post. I also visited Macau last summer when I was studying in Hong Kong for the summer…and I could not agree more. We visited for the day but I could’ve easily spent a week or two in Macau-it’s got the right mix of the East Asian vibe, but then out pops Portuguese and European as well…loved this post!
Thank you, Jess! I completely agree – the size is deceptive so you’d think a day alone is fine, but that’s just enough to see the tourist sights…not get a real feeling for the place! I’d love to go back someday :)